Apr 24, 2023
Written By: J.Couch
If you’re looking for an adventure in southern Georgia, consider taking a ferry out to Cumberland Island. Cumberland Island is not a National Park but a National Seashore and part of the National Park system. This is Georgia’s largest and southernmost barrier island and is home to stunning beaches, diverse wildlife, and historic ruins that date back to the 19th century.
We checked in and boarded the Cumberland Island Ferry in St. Marys Georgia which is just across the border from Florida. The boat ride is a 45-minute ride out to the island. Along the way you get spectacular views of the St. Marys River and the mainland as you make your way towards the island. Once you arrive, you’ll have plenty of options for exploring. One of the most popular activities is hiking out to see the ruins of Dungeness, the former estate of the Carnegie family, which I did not know but is actually pronounced “kar-NEG-ee”. Once off the boat we waited for the park ranger that was giving a walking tour out to the ruins and some history of the island. The hike to Dungeness ruin is about half of a mile, and takes you through a mix of forest of live oaks with Spanish moss covering the branches and open fields. Along the way, we kept an eye out for the island’s wildlife – armadillos, wild turkeys, and even wild horses that roam the island freely. Right off the bat our ranger spotted an armadillo rummaging around in the leaves and brush looking for bugs. It was huge compared to the ones that I have seen in the zoo. About the size of a cat or small dog. I was surprised by their size and the fact that they can’t see very well and don’t run off when people are nearby.
The ruins themselves are a sight to behold, with towering walls and crumbling chimneys that hint at the grandeur of the estate in its prime. You are not allowed up into the ruins for safety reasons but you can explore the grounds on your own, or join a guided tour to learn more about the history of the site. I heard later that a lot of rattle snakes like to hide out in the ruins so probably a good idea not to go inside. It is interesting to see such a huge remnant of a building that still stands, that was once a massive winter home for the rich and famous Carnegie family. Our tour guide stopped here and left us to explore the island on our own from here. There were many wild horses roaming around grazing in the grassy areas around the ruins. You need to be careful when around them because they can get quite aggressive if you get too close to them. They don’t recommend trying to get selfies with them.
Below are a few of the images that I was able to find of the Dungeness Mansion in its prime. All these link to the Library of Congress Prints and Photographs Division Washington, D.C. 20540 USA.
After checking out the ruins, headed east towards the beach to eat our lunch that we brought and take a quick walk on the beach. Maybe a little more wildlife spotting. Along the way we did see some deer, some wild turkeys and more armadillos. They seem to be everywhere on this island. Cumberland Island’s beaches are some of the most pristine in the area, with soft white sand and clear blue water that’s perfect for swimming or sunbathing. However, when we were here it was cloudy, windy and starting to rain, no sunbathing or swimming for us today.
We ate our lunch then headed back towards the boat dock so that we would not get stuck on the island for the night. We took the boardwalk trail back along the swamp area to see a different view and more wildlife along the way. It is much easier to take the boardwalk than trying to hike through the sandy areas. We made it back to the dock with about 45 minutes to kill before the boat was back to pick us up. There is a small museum in the Ice house that is located right by the dock. It will only take you about 10 minutes to look through there, maybe a little more depending on if you read through all the displays and look at all the old photographs of the area.
Right near the dock there you wait for the boat, there were 4 or 5 manatees swimming nearby and a mother with her baby up close to the shore. We boarded the boat and started our 45-minute journey back to the sleepy little town of St. Marys. On the boat ride back, you had to keep your eyes peeled for dolphins swimming in the distance, we saw many of them along the way back and a few that swam alongside the boat for a while.
All in all, a trip to Cumberland Island is a great way to experience the beauty and history of Georgia’s coast. Whether you’re hiking through the ruins, camping, spotting wildlife, or soaking up the sun on the beach, you’re sure to have an unforgettable adventure on this magical island. Mark another National Park location off our list!
Thanks for wandering with us,
The Wandering Couchs
